"Together we can not do everything. Together we can do something."
Certification - Most organizations/facilities require you to take a certification class for a discounted rate (along with possible trap rental). Click here for a list of organizations we have compiled who participate in T.N.R. The classes are usually held once a month and are inexpensive if not free.
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Traps - Some locations offer trap rental for free. If that is not an option check with your local humane society they could possibly have some to loan. Another option is contacting local rescues whom participate in T.N.R. We recommend getting one or two extra traps. There is a likely hood of getting other cats. Forks could also be available at some locations we would recommend getting 2 of those as well.
Space & Supplies - You will need a holding space for approximately 2-3 days. Somewhere quiet out of the elements is ideal. A garage is what we use. Some of the supplies we ask for/are in need of are: pee pads/incontinence pads, sheets/blankets (which you will cut up to use as trap covers - cut a slit in the top of the cover to slip the handle through), small containers (2 should fit the width of the traps for food and water while they are your guest), baiting food (see suggestions below), paper plates and tarps.
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Preparation - You will need to establish a feeding routine where you intend on setting the traps. We have found a week or so should be enough time to establish a routine. You can also provide shelters at this time. Feed in the same place every day around the same time if you can help it. We always use wet food along with dry food. The wet has a stronger odor bringing the cats to that location. Of course there is always the possibility of the cats already being fed at a location and the routine would not be necessary. :) You will NOT be feeding the day before you set the traps.
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Trapping - Before your big day be sure to have all your supplies ready and your holding area staged. We line tables with tarps to set the traps on. When arriving prepare all your bait bowls before setting any traps. Once you are ready set all your traps. You can drizzle any juice on the ground leading down to the trip plate inside the traps. Once that is all done observe from enough of a distance to where the cats are comfortable enough to come but your able to still see when you need to remove a occupied trap.
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As the traps begin to fill cover them with the sheets or blankets you cut up. Sometimes this can be tricky especially if there are numerous cats crowding around traps. In those instances hang back for a minute with enough covers ready to swoop in once and cover all the occupied traps. Once the traps are covered the cats will relax more and you can wait for any others to get in.
The trap can be wobbly if the cat is on the move inside so take special caution when transporting. Always use the handle. We do not recommend using both hands grasping the trap as this could result in injury to your fingers. We use tarps to set them on in our vehicles as the bait juice stinks and it possibly spilled. :) We also secure both doors with carabiner shackle making sure to place them in a location where it secures through the door and bottom bars or through the locking latch.
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It is important to keep the traps covered as much as possible. This provides a less stressful environment. Once you have your guests all set up in their holding tables prepare their food and water. Have your forms ready to complete for each cat (or at minimum a notebook to write the info in). Have enough pee pads folded (so they will line the entire bottom of the trap) for each trap. Make sure your forks are handy. Now your ready for the next step!! :)
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Care - You must invade their space as minimally as possible so everything needing to be done should be done at this time. Have their food, water, pee pad and your notebook ready (we also take a photo for our records which we recommend however, please do that either before you open the door or after you close it DO NOT leave the door open for unnecessary reasons). Pull the cover back half way. Most cats will retreat into the darkness. Slide your forks into the side of the trap as far as possible on the opposite end of the trap that your opening as you can. Placing the cat between the forks and the unopened end. This ensures the cat won't go forward while you have the door open. We place our food and water at the end with the trip plate because that door is the easiest to open and close quickly. Lay your pad down leaving the extra at the end where the cat is so it will fold down after you've removed the forks. Place food and water in and close the door. Remove the forks.
Record the data that you need such as breed, color and id number. Note any concerns such as wounds, lame limbs or anything else that would benefit a examination while the cat is sedated for sterilizing. Take a photo if you choose. Cover the trap back up and move on to the next. It is ok to peek on them every few hours and if needed change out their pee pads. To do any cleaning inside you would just repeat the fork process above. You need to remove all food at midnight so they do not get sick from surgery the next day. Prior to transporting to veterinarian the following morning change pee pads and covers if needed.
Post surgical care - When picking up your guest from the veterinarian generally instructions are given for any care needed for any concerns that you noted or concerns that were discovered and addressed while the animal was sedated. Post surgical care is the same care you provided pre surgery. Providing water and food along with clean pee pads. We peek in a little more post surgery to ensure everyone is doing ok. As long as there are no concerns being addressed and we are seeing normal recovery, we release our guests after staying overnight one night post surgery. In the instances where we will have a little bit longer term guest we set up a larger enclosure (see notes here or photos here) so they have some room to stretch their legs.
Longer term care - When housing longer term guests we have learned a thing or two.
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Ideally the enclosure should be roomy enough for a sleeping space, a eating space and a liter box.
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Keep in mind the activity level recommended for their recovery period. While it may seem like they would really like extra room sometimes it is better if they remain less active. It is best you advise with the veterinarian as to the activity level your guest is allowed.
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Having a large enough enclosure so your guest can have a plastic carrier inside (placed at the farthest point from the door) is providing your guest with a hiding space when he or she needs one. We lay a small blanket inside before placing it into the enclosure. The other benefit to this will come when it is time to take your guest back home which is explained below. If whatever you happen to be using is easy to see into or through, you can cover that with a cover also.
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Place your liter box and food on opposite ends of each other closest to the door. This will make it less stressful on your guest when you need to refill food/water and clean the liter. We use aluminum cake pans from the dollar store and fill with minimal liter and just dump the liter after use and reuse the pan until its no longer usable. You don't really want to fill with too much liter in the instance your guest is upset and dumps it anyways. :)
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Depending on the style of live trap you have (and the size of your enclosure) you can also place the trap into the enclosure if the traps exit door will stay open. We line the bottom with a few pee pads and place a cover over the top.
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If possible place the enclosure near a window. Your guests need to be stimulated and observing the wildlife provides good stimulation. Some of the friendlier cats we have played with using wands through the enclosure. You can provide a few toys. We stay away from the toys that hang as your guest could beome tangled up around the cord should they be a little upset they get to be your guest for just a few days longer. :) Again, please do not remove your guests without proper securement. They could be spooked easily and then become displaced from you.
TRAP
NEUTER
RETURN
the process
Release - About an hour or so before we begin preparing our guests for their departure home we feed them a nice hearty meal and thank them for their understanding. :) After everyone has eaten we remove bowls and change pads if necessary. Once your guests have arrived home they may become vocal. This is ok....they are happy to be home and maybe calling out for their friend. Place the covered traps in the same location you had trapped. Pull the cover back about a quarter of the way and step back for a few minutes while your now TNR'd guest gets their boundaries again. It won't take long and then you can open the exit door and watch them go! If your guest is not exiting you can pull the cover back until they realize the door is open. :)
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Now that your former guests are back at home don't forget to provide them with food, water and shelter.